Could this be the most luxurious hotel I've ever checked into?
Inside the Caruso, A Belmond Hotel, perched a thousand feet above the Amalfi Coast
Nestled on a ridge a thousand feet above sea level in Ravello with panoramic views of the Amalfi Coast, Caruso, A Belmond Hotel is the pinnacle of Campania luxury. Anchored by a tranquil infinity pool with awe-inspiring vistas, there’s also a small spa, multiple restaurants and Belmond’s unparalleled hospitality.
Location 9/10
A winding and vertiginous hour-long transfer from Naples International Airport, Caruso is situated a thousand miles above the Campania coast in Ravello, a quaint, sleepy town, off-the-beaten-path from the tourist hordes. It’s home to nice restaurants, an 11th century cathedral and beautiful ceramics and jewelry shops. A quick, 15-minute drive to Amalfi, it’s a popular embarkation point for Capri and other Gulf of Naples islands. It’s also an hour south of Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius.
“Going to Europe… was about as final as going to heaven. A mystical passage to another life, from which no one returned the same.”
SHIRLEY HAZZARD, ‘THE TRANSIT OF VENUS,’ 1980
Design 9/10
An airy 11th century palace in creamy stucco with terracotta roofs and tile floors, it’s as much about the outdoors and the views as it is about the interiors at Caruso. At every turn, the turquoise Mediterranean Sea shines through a new frame, whether it’s on the patio at breakfast, walking through the garden to the pool or enjoying a sunset aperitivo with live music on the terrace at Bar Caruso through Moorish-style arcades.
Amenities & Hospitality 9/10
Life at Caruso revolves around the enormous infinity pool perched on a cliff where lounging a day away with rosé, snacking on olives and crisps has never felt more sublime. There’s also a small spa offering luxurious treatments and an outdoor gym in a tiered garden. House boats can be hired for bespoke adventures at sea and there’s also a variety of complimentary onsite activities, from pasta-making classes to limoncello tastings.
As a brand, Belmond represents the pinnacle of hospitality and my best friend and I never went more than half hour before someone was there to see if we needed anything at all in a manner that was gracious and unobtrusive. In the evening, upon returning to our suite, we were almost always greeted with a little surprise: sweets, sun hats, sunscreen, stationery.
Rooms 9/10
With a variety of suites and villas, each with their own unique design, we were upgraded to a superior suite with a marshmallow-like king-sized bed and a minimalist wrought-iron canopy at its center befitting of a couple of princesses. A Juliet balcony, as well as porthole-style windows looked out to the astounding coastline and sea. There was also a glossy wooden dining table, a pair of yellow chaise lounges, a bar and two closets. An enormous bathroom had two separate vanities, a rainfall shower and a large soaking tub. Heaven.
Food & Beverage 8/10
Our favorite meals at Caruso were casual lunchtime pool breaks on the patio with a simple pasta pomodoro or buffalo mozzarella Neapolitan-style pizza alongside local wine and freshly baked bread. The Ristorante Belvedere is their formal restaurant, mostly al fresco with the same incredible views that never cease to amaze. It was a lovely experience, although we found the tasting menu a little uneven. Perhaps the most memorable aspect was an amuse bouche of lemon air served on a silver spoon. Sunset cocktails at Bar Caruso is also a must.
The breakfast spread, which comes complimentary with most stays, is impressive with all manner of local cheeses, cured meats, fresh fruits and pastries, as well as an à la carte menu with eggs and other hot dishes.
Value 8/10
Current rates from about $2,291. Book.
The Bottom Line
Could Caruso be the most luxurious hotel I’ve ever checked into? Yes, I think it is.
Contact
Piazza San Giovanni del Toro 2, 84010; 800 237 1236; belmond.com
Borrow my itinerary
After a few nights at Caruso, we shoved off from Amalfi with a group of friends on a weeklong sailing excursion through the Gulf of Naples with the Sailing Collective. We spent the week sailing north past Capri to the somewhat lesser known islands of Ischia, Ponza, Palmarola and Ventotene.
With the newly minted Mezzatorre hotel—situated on a rocky cliff and occupying a curious red stucco, fortress-like 16th century watchtower by the hospitality group behind Tuscany’s fashionable Hotel Il Pellicano—Ischia is the largest and most cosmopolitan island that we visited. It’s also the one that’s beginning to land on the radars of savvy travelers in search of paradise’s next frontier.
In Ponza, we hiked through sleepy commercial districts to sleepy residential ones and then agrarian hilltops with spectacular views, later rewarding ourselves with seaside spritzes and gelato. On its largely uninhabited sister islet Palmarola, we hiked to a summit with an alter and incredible 360 degree views that made us feel a little closer to the gods, then we splashed around on the rocky seashore after our descent.
And dreamy, salty Ventotene, with its vibrant marina carved into a cliff and history of exile, inspired in me a desire to live there in obscurity for a time and simply write and work on boats as I once did in Key West. For the most part, each of these islands felt like places filled mostly with Italians on their summer vacations as opposed to mobs of American and international tourists.
> Read more in “Sailing the Amalfi Coast.”
GETTING TO KNOW YOU…
At Letters & Leisure, we want to build a community of intrepid travelers and leisure lovers, so tell us:
What destination is at the top of your travel wish list?
What’s the next trip on your calendar?
What are you reading right now?
Reply directly to this email or you can always reach us at hoteligencelife@gmail.com. We look forward to hearing from you!
I'm ready to check in!